Is this Homebrew Life Cleric Variant Balanced Compared to Official Life Clerics?

I have a player who is playing a complete pacifist cleric (please, no comments about how that’s a terrible awful horrible idea that ruins DND, I know it’s unpopular, but I find it to be a fun challenge for me as a DM), so I’ve made some changes to the Life Domain Cleric to ensure she isn’t left with a ton of useless (and nonsensical) spells and proficiencies.

The Class

Some clerics are so dedicated to the preservation and development of life that they refuse to bring any harm against another creature. These pacifists may insist that their traveling compatriots also refrain from killing, or they may simply refuse to do damage themselves. With their impressive repertoire of healing abilities, shields, and buffs, these clerics should nevertheless not be underestimated by those who stand against them.

Unless specified here, all features of this domain are the same as in the PHB.

At level 1: Do not take any weapon proficiencies. Instead, you take two other skill proficiencies from the Cleric list, for a total of four. You will also gain one additional proficiency with a tool or instrument.

Your starting gear, if you choose to take the default packs, does not include any weaponry.

At level 3: instead of automatically learning the spell Spiritual Weapon, you learn the spell Spiritual Shield

Spiritual Shield

2nd-level evocation

Casting Time: 1 bonus action

Range: 60 feet

Components: V, S

Duration: 1 minute

You create a floating, spectral shield within range that lasts for the duration or until you cast this spell again. The caster must specify a target when first casting the spell. It can target any creature, hostile or not, and does not require a saving throw. If the shielded creature moves on its turn, the shield moves with it. As a bonus action on your turn, you can move the shield to another creature within 20 feet of the first creature. The shield can appear however you wish, and its stats do not change based on its appearance. The shield can have one (1) of the following effects:

The target’s AC is boosted by +2, as if they were using a shield, but without the requirement of actually holding one. If the target is already using a shield, this has no effect.

The target gains resistance to one of the following forms of damage: necrotic, poison, or psychic.

At level 7: instead of automatically learning the spell Guardian of Faith, you learn the spell Aura of Life.

At level 8: instead of gaining the Divine Strike ability, you earn the feat Dual-Focused, from the Tal’dorei Campaign Guide.

[I’m not sure if it’s acceptable as far as copyright goes to publish the entire text of this feat from the book, but the gist of it is that it allows for concentration on two spells at once, with the CON saves being much more difficult while doing so.]


I have already asked about the balance of the spell spiritual shield here. Please direct comments about it to the appropriate question. (In general, however, I’m not looking for more feedback on the spell at this point.) The player in question has purchased the Taldorei Campaign Guide, so she has access to the full text of the feat.

How is security risk of storing authentication token in localStorage compared with cookies?

I’ve read that it’s a bad idea to save Single Page App’s encrypted authentication token in browser’s localStorage because this makes your app vulnerable to XSS attack, and when the token is stolen, the hacker can disguise as the user and do whatever evil.

But as far as I know cookies are also vulnerable to XSS hijacking.

So I’m wondering what’s the difference if any? And how the risks of the two methods are compared

Does installing GApps save space compared to PlayStore install?

I am about to clean-install a Lineage ROM on my Android and I want to maximize the internal storage space left for the apps I want. What I understand so far is:

  • The GApps package will reside in the /system read-only partition.
  • Updates of apps from the GApps package will reside in the user partition.
  • Apps installed via the Play Store will reside in the user partition.

I see the two following options:

  1. Install a lean GApps package (e.g. OpenGApps pico) and then install the apps I want from Google’s Play Store.
  2. Install a GApps package which includes additional apps (e.g. OpenGApps mini).

Question 1: Is there a drawback to making the /system partition as full as possible by selecting the biggest fitting GApps package?

Question 2: If I need some Google apps such as Maps and YouTube, which option maximizes the space left available to install other apps, updates and user data?

Additional information:

  • The device is a Motorola G 2015 (osprey) with 8Gb internal storage.
  • When comparing the difference between the mini and pico packages, the only apps I need from the mini package not included in the pico package are Maps and Youtube, all the rest is useless to me.
  • I can get the most recent OpenGApps package and it’s ok for me to disable the update of apps such as Maps and Youtube if it results in more available user data space. (My aim is to extend the lifetime of my device by avoiding the lack of internal memory.)
  • I saw this StackExchange answer, but it didn’t answer my question well enough.

Why am I having trouble getting sharp results with my new DSLR, compared to a point and shoot?

I’m having issues with my new Nikon D3200. I am new at photography, but I’ve previously used my parents camera (a Canon) for my brother’s senior photos, and those were crystal clear.

I’ve got this camera and have been doing lots of research and put it on manual… switched the settings on diff things, and they’re still blurry. They seem to look good viewing them on the camera, but viewing them on the computer… not so much. Makes me sick. I had two photo sessions outdoors this past week and many of the photos look that way when you zoom in. What am I doing wrong? Is my Nikon defective?

I have the 18-55 lens, plan to get another one 55-220 or something in the next few days. I had ISO set to 200 and aperture at, like, 4.5, I think. Shutter speed at 1/250. I was told to do the settings at all those by a photographer, but I don’t know exactly the details.

I had the VR turned on… as well as the M for manual. I haven’t used a tripod. One thing that is odd to me is that some of the pictures look better as I zoom in than the actual pic. Then some look really blurry/soft like the further I zoom. To be honest, they all are a tad blurry no matter what. I used photoshop and sharpened them and made a huge difference, but it still wasn’t what I wanted. I had the metering set on matrix on one session and on center weighted on the other. Outcome was the same.

I created a flickr gallery if someone could please go and look at the photos I posted. This gallery has labeled examples of all of the problems I am seeing. This is something I need help on ASAP as I have a session coming up soon.

The “before” photos haven’t been altered. I opened them up in photoshop to save them as a jpeg because Flickr would not accept photos in raw format.

Is the wings of flurry spell broken, when compared to other strong 4th level spells?

Relevant parts of the spell.

  • Evocation [Force]
  • Level: Sorcerer 4,
  • Range: 30 ft.
  • Area: 30-ft.-radius burst
  • Saving Throw: Reflex half
  • Spell Resistance: Yes

wings that strike at every target in range, dealing 1d6 points of damage per caster level to all designated targets within 30 feet that fail a Reflex saving throw and half that damage to creatures that succeed on the save. Creatures that fail the Reflex save are also dazed for 1 round.

Special: A dragonblooded character, or a character with the dragon type, casts this spell at +1 caster level.

It seems just to be on the better end of 4th level spells, like Black Tentacles.

Am I missing it’s hidden power?

Do Nikon sensor jpegs have a very slight yellow cast to them in the image compared to Canon?

I shoot with a Nikon D3400 and I am a beginner casual photographer. I shoot in maximum quality jpeg(NOT RAW) on auto white balance. Recently my friend and I were shooting some same subjects(my friend also shoots on jpeg auto white balance) and I noticed that Canons white color was more white and overall picture seemed more white compared to my Nikon. My Nikon has a very slight yellow cast to every image when compared to Canon. I thought it was my cameras problem but later when I checked jpegs of Canon and Nikon from the internet I saw the same thing. All Nikon jpegs seem to have a slight yellow cast when compared to Canon jpegs. Note- These are not raw to raw comparisons but jpeg to jpeg comparisons.

Count max values compared with previous array

I try to count the number of values in a row that are equal are greater to MAX() value of a (part) of the column above.

For example: compared to the 3 cells above itself. In E comes the ‘count’. i marked the cells it should count with *.

enter image description here

My final array is about 200×5000… I already tried (cell E4 in example) stuff like: {=SUM(IF(A4:D4>=MAX(OFFSET(A1,ROW($ 1:$ 4)-1,0,3,1)),1,0))} {=COUNTIF(A4:D4,”>=”&MAX(OFFSET(A1,0,ROW($ 1:$ 4)-1,3,1)))}

Hoping that the ROW() & OFFSET function would split the MAX function over the columns… But none give a decent result. I can of course split the MAX() over 200 different columns on a different sheet. But I’m getting nightmare because i can’t get it done in a single array formula.