I have purchased a Canon 1200D and am wondering how long I should charge the battery when it arrives. I’ve heard people say that we need to charge a battery for one day to prevent battery “memory”.
Do I actually need to charge the battery for that long, or will two hours be sufficient?
In mirrorless cameras, light reaches the image sensor all the time, so this data can be used by the camera to determine the correct focus, shutter time, aperture and ISO. Makes sense so far.
However DSLRs need to know all these parameters before the sensor gets hit by light and thus can’t use the sensor for that, so I imagine there must be some kind of additional measuring device to do the job. Assuming this assumption is correct, where exactly is this device located inside the camera and how does it work?
After several years of using my Canon Rebel T3 on and off, I’ve decided to upgrade my camera and start actually learning photography. My main interests are in landscapes and night/astrophotography. I’ve been reading lots of reviews about the brands that currently excel in these fields and see Nikon mentioned a lot. However, as I’ve been told, Canon lenses cannot mount onto Nikon bodies. Being a student, I don’t have much money and having to buy new lenses on top of a camera body is something I wouldn’t want to resort to.
Would it be better for me to jump ship to Nikon and start from there or should I continue with Canon and use the few lenses I already own?
My camera is in Auto Focus mode (AF). As my understanding, the camera will focus on subject automatically. But when I rotate the focus ring, the focus subject points will change, too. I don’t understand why. As my understanding, Focus ring is only used when Manual focus (MF) used.
If I rotate focus ring in AF mode, does this hurt the camera or lens? My lens is Sony DT 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 SAM Zoom Lens. ( The User guide of the lens does not mention about AF & rotating focus ring issue).
I am considering buying Lomography DigitaLIZA film masks for both 35mm and 120mm film to use within my digitisation process, however I am unsure of the best methods around the other areas of my process.
I struggle for back-lighting of the negatives mainly. I have an iPad in which I initially used, showing a blank white screen with my film negative on top and a glass/perspex sheet on top to flatten out. However, I found that upon inspecting the photos of my negatives, I could actually see the pixels of the Retina display in the whiter areas. I have gotten better results with no pixels in the background when lifting the negatives up, away from the screen and resting the setup on top of say a cardboard box, however this can sometimes lead into another problem… Making sure everything is level.
I have seen people use copy stands and film viewing light panels, but from what the products I have viewed this can start to incur great cost.
Does anybody have similar experience with digitising film negatives and a way to do it without breaking the bank?
I have a non weather sealed DSLR (Canon 2000D) along with a bunch of non weather sealed lenses and other equipment. I am for obvious reasons not planning to use the camera outdoors in rain, snow or similar weather.
However, I may have to move the camera in the bag to another indoors location in rain.
Today, I learned that many “all weather” camera bags have separate raincovers you have to put on. So, it’s not the main material that is weather-resistant but rather a separate raincover.
Do typical camera bag materials (apart from the separate raincover) keep the equipment inside dry enough during a 5 minute walk in medium rain? In very heavy rain, I can of course use the separate raincover but I would prefer a camera bag that is built from material that keeps the camera adequately dry in medium rain for short periods of time. I understand that most camera bags are built from nylon and polyester.
I would like to purchase a camera shoulder bag to fit a small DSLR camera with an attached lens, 2-3 extra lenses and a flash.
The collection of lenses I am planning to carry can vary depending on the situation, but I would like to be able to carry at least these selections in a manner that one lens is attached to the camera and 2 or 3 others have the lens caps on both sides:
- Zoom, telezoom and 50mm
- Canon 55-250mm
- Canon 18-55mm
- Canon 50mm f/1.8 prime
- Many zooms
- Canon 55-250mm
- Canon 18-55mm
- Canon 10-18mm
- Primes and ultrawide
- Canon 24mm f/2.8 prime (pancake lens)
- Canon 50mm f/1.8 prime
- Canon 85mm f/1.8 prime
- Canon 10-18mm
Note the 50mm and 24mm together are the size of a zoom lens, so even though one of the lens selections has 4 lenses, in practice it still counts as 3.
I also have a small DSLR (Canon 2000D) and a flash (Canon 430EX-III RT). I also ordered a MagMod MagGrip and a MagMod MagBounce.
There are several criteria I have:
- Weather sealing is a must
- Weight of the bag should be reasonably low (I calculated the shoulder bag would add total max weight to about 2.6 – 2.8 kg depending on the bag weight if carrying lens selection 3, flash and MagMod equipment; that’s the worst possible case — although I hate weighty equipment, I have carried temporarily a laptop in a shoulder bag with 3.5 kg total weight which is slightly uncomfortable, so 2.6 – 2.8 kg should be barely acceptable)
- Should be durable
- Shouldn’t be excessively large in external dimensions; no need for “future expansion” as the amount of equipment I can carry is anyway limited by weight
My research has led me to believe that of the Lowepro bags, Nova 160 AW II and 170 AW II would be too small and thus I’ll have to purchase Nova 180 AW II if going with a Lowepro bag.
Can anyone recommend what bag to choose? Is my estimate correct that Nova 180 AW II would be necessary? Any other good choices than Lowepro?
One option would be to go to a retailer that has various Lowepro bags on the shelf and try to fit all the equipment to the bag, but this is complicated by two things: (1) the 10-18mm and MagMod equipment I ordered haven’t yet arrived, (2) one of the retailers I frequently buy stuff from doesn’t have 170 AW II on the shelf, so I can’t try all three.
I’m not going to use the bag for foreign travel. If I’m someday visiting another country and carry a DSLR for the trip, I’ll buy another, smaller camera bag for the trip.
Pentax DSLR cameras, like the K-5, have a service mode, also called Debug Mode, that requires special steps to access.
In that mode, some hidden settings can be checked, such as the total number of shutter releases. It also gives access to the Lens ROM data, even with the ability to alter focusing behavior of exchangeable lenses.
How does one access this Debug Mode?
I was reading this question and recalled how often I hear the advice “choose your lenses and then choose the body that matches” in the context of deciding on a camera platform (Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Sony, etc).
I shoot Nikon and so I study a lot about Nikon-compatible lenses. From what I see though, Canon seems to have an equivalent lens for most Nikon lenses. For example, there’s the nifty fifties and the pro midrange zooms. On top of that, there’s lots of lenses from 3rd-party manufacturers that come in versions for each system/mount.
I agree that lenses are a more important investment than a body; they have a huge impact on image quality and a longer product life cycle. And there’s lots of variation between lenses within a platform’s offering.
My question is: how much lens difference is there between the different platforms? Do you really pick the lens first and then pick the body that goes with it?
I’ve upgraded K-S1 camera firmware to latest version, played with some settings and reset them to defaults.
For some reasons, manual (K) lenses aren’t accepted anymore. Modern auto-focus lenses work fine but for my old lenses, the camera doesn’t show focal length setting when turned on. Display shows flashing F– and I can’t take pictures in any mode.