Can I remove the battery on my olympus point and shoot film even if there is a film inside?
I loaded a roll into my Nikon Nuvis A20 and “accidentally” hit that reverse film button meaning that the film switched to “fully exposed”. Is there a way I can reverse this or have I wasted this roll?
When putting in a new roll of (35mm) film, I accidentally told my camera to rewind, rather than load the film. Now there’s no tab sticking out of the roll, so I can’t load it.
Is there a way to unwind the film slightly, so that I could still use that film?
My chemicals are about four years old and maybe used about six times. They have been stored inside my home, 75° F, and in a cabinet. Chemicals are in glass beer growlers with tight lids. This is the first time I developed and have no images. I am thinking it’s that my chemicals are now expired but I am unsure if this is what it looks like if they are bad. Or it’s a result of something else. Are are No images, no sign of any frames. And yes, the film seems to be thinner than normal. Can someone tell me if this is the result of bad chems? They also haven’t been used in a year
Two years ago 25 sheets of Ilford Delta 100 4×5 B&W cost just over $ 25. My last purchase last fall it was ~$ 35. Now it’s $ 46. That’s a steep rise! What’s driving these rising film prices and can we expect them to drop again some day?
I’m new into film and I recently bought a pack of 200 film. I’m just not sure what ISO to use. I don’t want my photos to come out over or under exposed.(I have a Minolta X-700)
What is “DX encoding” of roll film, such as 135 format film used in 35mm cameras? How does it work? When was it introduced? Is there anything else I need to know about using DX encoded film in a camera that can read the encoding? How about in a camera that can not read the encoding? For that matter, how can I tell if my film camera can read DX encoded film?
What is the relationship between the speed number of the film you put into your film camera and the iso adjustable setting on the camera itself. Do you put them on the same number or do you adjust them to suit the environment and lighting your in ? I can’t find the answer online
I’m looking for a robust (long-lasting) mirrorless camera with a price tag up to $ 2,000. So besides Leica and Nikon Z7, which brands should I go for if I want photos to look as close to film as possible? I’ve mostly read about Fujifilm, Sony and Olympus.
(I’m talking professional photography)
I have a Kodachrome 40 Super 8 film cassette, which was exposed, developed and viewed using a projector in 1980. I have not tried to view/project the film recently. However, the film in the cassette now looks completely grey, with no sign of any developed images. Is this type of cine film affected by aging after it has been developed?