My photos are coming out way overexposed, could someone please tell me the best settings for everyday outdoor shots in bright light
I’m running two Nikkor Ai lenses with dandelion chips on a Nikon D800. Both work great. I’ve recently started using a Nikon F5 film camera. The same lenses don’t give any aperture readout or indication they are recognised by the F5. The F5 is working with other modern off the shelf lenses. Can anyone confirm how the Nikon F5 should behave with dandelioned lenses? I was under the impression they should work but the chips can’t be programmed using the F5.
Total beginner here, have been having great fun with my Nikon D3300 during the past year but recently, when using the viewfinder, everything looks perfect but when I look at the image that has been taken, I can see images are coming out black bar a tiny strip of normal image at the very top of the screen.
This only happens using the viewfinder. However, liveview gives a perfect image of the exact same view. It happens with both of my lenses (Nikkor 18-55 and Tamron 70-300) irrespective of what mode I use or whether I’m shooting indoors or outside, so I’m assuming it’s a fault with my settings or body? Any help greatly appreciated!
I would like to control my D5300 through WiFi using a Raspberry Pi. The idea is to use as the camera for Octolapse in Octoprint while printing 3D objects.
The NEF files look normal when using windows photo viewer, but on the same monitor the JPEG that the camera has converted looks yellow. If I view the NEF on different software it looks yellow also.
I have a Nikon d3100, a few weeks ago I had an issue where my files all got lost. I figured it was due to using an old memory card so I replaced my memory card. I have only used the new 32g card two times (formatting them in the camera each shoot). Yesterday I came home from a shoot and all but one of the photos are ‘corrupted’ I can see that there are NEF files but they wont’t open no matter how I try to download them. There is one photo (my first one) that is able to open and download but all of the others are unable to do anything with. They aren’t really lost because I can see them Any tips or tricks? Or ways to recover these photos? Is my camera the problem?
There was another similar question out there and one of the responders commented there was and he got his camera body replaced. I’ve been having the same issue with my new nikon just bought in January. Nikon wants me to send the body and lenses in to have it “looked at”. I can’t afford to go without the camera while they mess around with it.Does anyone have ideas as to how I can get this remedied better, quicker and without losing a camera?
Current Nikon camera bodies and lenses have electrical contacts. What exactly are they used for and what sorts of electrical signalling is used? Why are there so many?
Some background to my question.
Early Nikon F-mount lenses communicated to the camera with physical couplings:
- at 7 o’clock: the original aperture-indicating meter-coupling “prong” (pre-AI).
- at 10 o’clock and at 6 o’clock black aperture-indicating ridges (AI).
- at 3 o’clock a slot to engage the pin that locks lens to body.
- just below that a machined dimple indicating linear stop-down (AI-S).
In 1990 Nikon filed US Patent 4896181 which described “a camera system … provided with terminals for transmitting information data signals [between body and lens]” this described a five contact system
The Patent is long and tedious to read but I gather that these five contacts implement a simple synchronous serial interface:
- “a” – Vdd (positive battery voltage)
- “b” – P1/P2
- “c” – SCLK (serial clock)
- “d” – SI
- “e” – Vss (common ground)
When Nikon introduced autofocus (AF), at that time they introduced lenses and bodies with these five electrical contacts (by the way, at 11 o’clock is the coupling for the focus-motor in the body that drives the lens focussing mechanism)
However, later they increased the number of contacts to seven in the body.
And (later?) to eight contacts as shown in this lens, although some contemporary Nikon DSLRs (with this kit lens) still only had seven contacts! (by the way note at 7 o’clock is the focus-motor coupling in this entry-level DSLR – stare and weep ye D3200/D5100 owners with AF-D lenses)
More recent lenses have up to ten contacts!
I wonder why you need more contacts (surely the old 5-contact serial interface can just be used for newer data)? What do the “extra” contacts do?
For comparison the Nikon 1 CX mount has twelve contacts arranged
- with spring pins in body not in lens
- at the bottom of the opening (not at top as in F-mount)
- parallel to the front surface of the camera body (not radially perpendicular)
Recently i have bought Nikon D850 with 24-120 mm VR lens, Few months after Nikon announced mirrorless series Z7, Z6. Has i made any mistake with Nikon D850 ?
I have a Nikon 5100 and the option to change the ISO settings on Auto mode isn’t available. The option is grayed out and it’s stuck on auto. The ability to change ISO setting is only available when your in P, S, A or M mode. Does anyone know how to change it so that I have ISO control in auto mode as well?