Remove Author Links

I’m trying to remove the author pages as well as the links to the author pages on my wordpress website powered by Divi.

First, I disabled author archives and pages with the Yoast plugin.

Then, I used a short CSS snippet to disable the mouse pointer. It’s working correctly, but the balise was still existing. Meaning, the search engine bots were getting a 301 redirect when requesting the document.

So, I asked some guys on a Divi forum and they provided me the following snippet

<script>     jQuery(function($  ){         $  (".author a").attr("href", "#");     }); </script> 

So, I added it. Nevertheless, there was still a link looping on the same page. If I can see it in the source code, the googlebot can too.

Here it is in the source code

And I don’t want it to waste its ressources on looping on the same page.

So, then I tried this snippet:

<script>     jQuery(function($  ){         $  (".author a").removeAttr("href");     }); </script> 

What it looks in the source code

While in the source code it seems "ok", when I crawl the website with Screaming Frog, it still finds many /author/ pages. But when I explore the source code of the "origin" pages, I don’t find any link containing /author/ or the author name… (I flushed out the cache already)

I’ve been spending hours on this topic already. I’m open to any idea.


How to remove comment count column in Posts inside the admin dashboard?

I know how to remove from pages:

function remove_pages_count_columns($  defaults) {   unset($  defaults['comments']);   return $  defaults; } add_filter('manage_pages_columns', 'remove_pages_count_columns'); 

But can’t find the answer how to remove for posts.

I have tried:

add_filter('manage_posts_columns', 'remove_posts_count_columns'); 


add_filter('manage_post_columns', 'remove_post_count_columns'); 

But none of the above worked.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hair Chalk: How to Use It & Remove It

Hair Chalk: How to Use It & Remove It

Perhaps it’s all the gorgeous festival beauty looks on our Pinterest feeds, but lately we’ve had the urge to go full-on cotton candy with our locks. There’s something about pastel-hued, hair-chalked strands that speaks to our inner wild child—and we’ll be honest, the lack of commitment makes them even more appealing. But with new formulas springing up left and right, how are you supposed to know how to use (and more importantly, remove the remnants of) each one? We did the research for you, and found out exactly how to apply and wash out each type of hair chalk, leaving you more time to fishtail and dip-dye to your heart’s content.
Liquid Hair Chalk
Liquid hair chalk lasts anywhere from 2-10 shampoos. It will usually come with a sponge-tipped or foam applicator. To apply, place a towel over your shoulders and put on gloves to prevent staining your clothes and hands. Next, use the applicator to apply the formula to your locks. wait 30 seconds for product to absorb fully, then blow-dry with a styling brush. To remove it, you’re supposed to just wash your hair as you would normally. However, you can also massage a hair oil like Sachajuan’s Intensive Hair Oil ($33) into your strands before shampooing and conditioning, in order to speed up the removal process.
Hair Chalk Compact
A hair chalk compact can be used on wet or dry hair, but applying to wet hair will give you a more intense color. Take a one-inch section of hair and slide the hair chalk compact over the length you’d like to color. Seal the pigment in with a spritz of hairspray. Depending on how light your hair is, it’ll last one to three shampoos to get it out of your hair. Hair chalk that comes in a compact will usually wash out quickly and easily with shampoo, though blondes may have to shampoo a few times more to rinse out all of the pigment.
Hair Chalk Pen
The traditional hair chalk pen can be used on wet or dry hair, and lasts from 2-4 shampoos, depending on how light your hair is. Place a towel on your shoulders and use gloves to prevent staining. If you’re brunette, wet the section of hair you’d like to color before applying the chalk. Blondes can do that too, but it’ll make the pigment stay on much longer. Apply the chalk to the strand of hair you’d like to color, twisting the hair into itself as you go. Allow for the color to dry, or just give it a cool blast of air with your hairdryer. Style as usual, but if you want to lock in the color, finish it with hairspray. It can be removed with normal shampoo, but a clarifying shampoo (like Verb’s Reset, $16) will rinse it out quick.
Hair Chalk Spray
Hair chalk spray is likely the easiest to use, because you just spray it on dry hair right before going out. It typically only lasts a few shampoos, but that also means it’s super easy to get out of your hair. Just mist the color directly on your hair, wherever you would like a pop of color, and style it like normal.
Markers, or felt-tip pens, serve a variety of functions. Children use them to make bright, colorful drawings. The stereotypical teacher uses a glaring, unmistakable red felt-tip to grade papers. Retail employees, roadside vendors, performers, and protestors rely on the indelible, eye-catching shades and thick inking surface of these writing and drawing utensils to announce sales, prices, and productions, or to create strongly worded posterboard signs to convey dissatisfaction. Markers are also useful for permanently marking surfaces, which is often necessary for identification purposes—putting names on clothing tags, boxes, and tape which can be adhered to almost any item.

Raw Materials

The marker body, cap, and plugs are formed from plastic resin. The marker reservoir, which holds the ink, is formed from polyester. Powder and water are used to form the felt writing tip. In addition, markers require ink, and the pigments and synthetic substances used to make it. Toluol and xylol used to be common synthetics used as solvents in dye, but due to their toxic nature these substances have largely been replaced with safer chemicals such as cyclic alkylene carbonates, although these chemicals are still used to make the indelible ink contained in permanent markers. The solvent is the substance into which the dye is diluted. Water also acts as a solvent in ink. Additives may also be used in an ink mixture to act as wetting agents.

Making the marker
3 To make the body of the marker, plastic resin is injection-molded into a marker body. Injection molding involves heating a substance, in this case plastic resin, into a molten state and forcing (injecting) it into a mold of the desired shape, then allowing it to cool and harden. Marker caps and plugs are formed in the same manner as the barrel.
4 The nib, or tip, of the marker is made from powder which is mixed with water, molded, and baked into its pointed or flat form.
5 Using one machine for all the following functions, an assembler then places a polyester cylinder inside the marker barrel to form a reservoir for the ink, fills the reservoir with ink, and inserts the nib at the bottom and the cap at the top.
6 The markers are then placed into color assortment and packaged for retail marketing.

[font=”Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]The highlighter’s appeal has flourished in the digital age. Most word-processing and e-reader software products have a highlighter function. And the hand-held [url=]highlighter continues to evolve, too. In the early ’80s, the fiber tip gave way to polyethylene beads molded into porous heads. (The plastic squeaks less, and the ink flows more smoothly.) When the highlighter business saw that it wasn’t being embraced by holdouts who preferred pens, it made the dual highlighter/pen. There are now retractable highlighters. And flat ones. And ones that smell like pizza.[/font]
Due to the thin paper used in most Bibles, typical highlighters often bleed through. For that reason, G.T. Luscombe, a distributor of Bible-study accessories based in Frankfort, Ill., got into the business of Bible-paper-friendly highlighters. John Luscombe, the president and chief executive, explains:
Is there a particular color code? There are different types of coding depending on how many colors there are. But for the most common four colors, we recommend that yellow represents blessings, blue represents the Holy Spirit, pink represents salvation and green represents growth and new life.

How to Choose a Paint Starter Set for Beginners
With so many paint colours available and new ranges being released every week, which paint set should you buy when you first start painting?
The overwhelming feeling that descends when trying to buy paint colours either online or in your local art store can often lead to the safe bet…
The pre-boxed starter set.
The paint companies have designed them to help you, right? The best paints for your needs when you are just beginning…or so you would think.
But are they a good choice?
Are you getting the best value for money or are they sending you down the wrong path? I’ve devised a simple technique to help you decide which starter palette is right for you.
Ready for a little paint history lesson to understand what you should be thinking about on your next trip to the art store?…
Boxed starter sets are designed to give you a varied approach, a range of colours that can give you the widest colour gambit with the minimum amount of outlay.
But here’s the rub.
It depends on what you’re aiming for with your end result. If you think about the paintings that you want to achieve, the subject matter you are most drawn to before you actually buy your paints then you can make an educated guess which colour palette is going to be right for you.
The Old Masters
In Renaissance times, the Old Masters learnt their trade of painting as a craft.
The tradition of the craft had a system of apprenticeship.
Colour mixes were kept secret and passed on from generation to generation, some painters even created their own codes to keep the secret mixes safe.
Working under apprenticeships in individual Ateliers (the French word for “workshop”) was the norm. Artists learnt how to grind their own paints from the natural earth pigments surrounding them. Working from dry pigments, they had to be mixed with oil and then ground into a paste by hand to make paint.
The colour choice was limited and paintings relied on the use of dramatic lighting and tonal value to produce great works. (see: The Importance of contrast in painting)
Working with this limited available palette can teach you a great deal about colour mixing and warm and cool colours. I’ve made a free still life video course that shows you a classical approach to painting using just burnt sienna, ultramarine blue & titanium white.
Masters Palette – Perfect for portraits & understanding the importance of tone.
When the Old Masters were mixing colours, the pigments came from the earth, literally ground up rocks and minerals – hence the muted palette being called the earth colours.
When painting portraits, they couldn’t just go out to buy ‘flesh tint’ they looked, observed and mixed it.
Burnt umber, raw umber, yellow ochre, burnt sienna, red ochre, these are the sorts of colours they would have been using.
If you want to try and recreate an Old Master-style painting, using the pigments they used, gives you an immediate head start. In my article on ‘How to choose a basic portrait palette’ I use a muted collection of colours.
Skin tones are muted, so start with a muted colour. It seems obvious right? But when you’re painting the urge to try and ‘fix it’ by adding an extra colour is huge.
Don’t feel like it’s only you, I still do it now after 20 years, even though I should know better!

The Holiday Season brings with it plenty of gifts… and then there are the actual gifts themselves! Yes, we know it. Christmas is not just about presents and shopping alone. It is definitely not a time to just run around from one store to another looking for that elusive gift. But we all do it anyway. Then comes the time to wrap it all up and put it under the giant tree so that it all feels picture-perfect. And for some us, this is undoubtedly the part that we most enjoy. Wrapping your Christmas gift feels so very serene, relaxing, and enjoyable. Maybe it is because you know that finally the shopping is all done. Maybe because you can marvel at the DIY Gift Box you just crafted. And once you’ve completed your DIY gift set you can choose from this pack of 20 different Holiday Grosgrain Ribbon patterns as the final touch. 
This is right; this Holiday Season, it is time to give your presents a homemade box. A festive DIY gift box makes it all more personal and you will see that every member of your family and our friends will love the custom box as much as they cherish the gift inside. Handmade gift boxes also give you greater creative freedom when it comes to ‘saying it just right’. 

I made a new site, what should I do to remove the old site from Google search result and put the new one in?

I have very limited knowledge about SEO. The problem I am facing is that after my new website built with wordpress went live, when I search for my website’s name, my old website that was built with Wix still appears as the first results, while my new website is not even in the first page.

What is the best practice to promote the new website? Please note that my old site has been around for a long time. Instead of simply shut down the old website and start a new SEO campaign for the new website, is there a way to have my new website inherit the reputation the old one already has with Google.

remove SLASH on single_post but KEEP on categories and parent pages

My current permalink structure is  /%category%/%postname%/  which produce urls as:
(category_base removed using "FV Top Level Categories" Plugin)

category:    ◀▬ SLASH is GOOD for directories & ↙ parent pages     page:      post:    ◀▬ but BAD for single_post, ↖ child pages &     page:     page:    ◀▬ standalone pages 

So, I want to
keep TRAILING SLASH "/" on:

  • categories and child categories
  • parent pages

remove TRAILING SLASH "/" on:

  • single_posts
  • standalone page (who don’t have any child pages)
  • child pages

AND "301" Redirect  "/"  version of these ↖ pages to NON  "/"  version pages