I have a Canon 4000D and I would like to take some long exposure photography. It only allows shutter speeds up to 30 seconds and I would prefer to have the ability to take shots that are exposed for 1 minute or more. Is it possible? I’m OK with using 3rd party software like CHDK if I have to.
Can anyone help me. What dose a Remote shutter release do and how do I use it???????. It says in this book that I am reading that it is good to have a Remote shutter release but I have no clue what it is. I have tried searching the web but nothing answered my question. If you know the answer that would be amazing! Thanks
Even after I disabled the ringer and muted, shutter sound can still be heard on my iPhone 6s. Why?
I tried to fix it in Settings, and followed the instruction, but the camera still makes shutter sound.
What can I do to turn the sound off?
I enjoy amateur wildlife photography, and have always used crop camera bodies + long lenses, and usually shoot handheld. Obviously the main difficulty is that I need very fast shutter speeds to get sharp photos, especially of moving subjects. Equally obvious is that I have no control over the weather (aka lighting) or the wildlife. Lastly, as an amateur I just can’t spend the kind of money needed for a prime lens, so for example right now my zoom is a Sigma 150-600 Sport, f5-f6.3.
All of this means when the light is bad and/or the wildlife is fast-moving, I often find myself increasing my ISO up into the thousands. I decided to get a full-frame camera as an alternative to switch to when the light isn’t great. I thought that since the full-frame gathers more light, I wouldn’t need as high an ISO to get the same shutter speed. This would mean less noise, and better shots in less light. But with a few tests so far, it seems like the full-frame requires similar settings. Maybe I’m missing something?
For example today I was taking pictures of a snowy owl. I started with my crop camera, and at 600mm / f8 / ISO 640 I was getting shutter speeds of about 1/5000. This was fine, it was sunny out but sometimes a cloud blocked the sun and the shutter speed dropped to about 1/2000, which is the minimum I like to go to for subjects that might move. I decided to switch to the full-frame and do some testing, and I found that in order to get the same shutter speed, I had to increase the ISO to exactly the same setting. Yes the lens and aperture setting were the same, but doesn’t the full frame still get more light and therefore require less ISO? The full-frame body was shooting in full mode, not crop.
Here is the specific gear list, thanks so much for any advice!
- crop: Nikon D500
- full frame: Nikon Z 6
- lens: Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Sport
I have 3 in 1 Neewer remotes, one transmitter and 4 receivers. Can I use the receivers to fire the flash and activate the shutter with the transmitter at the same time? I notice there is a flash and shutter or camera slide on the sides, does this mean all I can do is one or the other? I have a Neewer 670 flash unit and an El cheapo flash that came in the camera kit. I would like to use remote shutter and remote flash when pressing the remote transmitter button, not sure if that will happen. I am afraid to try.
How can I read the shutter count on Canon EOS 6D Mark II on Windows with a preferrably free tool?
How can I get the actual shutter actuation count for a Canon EOS 500D or 550D (Digital Rebel T1i or T2i)?
Two popular solutions for most earlier Canon cameras don’t work:
I peeked at location 0x9d-9e in a raw file but for the EOS 550 a constant value 0x0001 is stored there. (This worked for pre-500 bodies.)
The EOSInfo software fails to detect the camera (perhaps because I’m running a 64-bit system). (This isn’t supposed to work anyway…)
I am working on depth estimation and I need to create android app for taking pictures or recording video at the same time on two different phones. I know I have to use Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, but there is always a delay, so what is the best way for synchronizing two phones?
I know this question, how to take all the shots set in the bracketing with one shutter press, has been asked several times but the answer has been CL or CH or Self Timer. But while I was playing around, I’ve set it to Q and all three shots fires with single shutter press, however, it is not consistent. When I try again at another instance, this might not work. Is there some other settings involved to make this happen again or is it a flaw in the software?
In the camera of my S9+ I can use the volume buttons on the phone to take pictures. I can also use the 3.5mm headphones media buttons as a shutter for the camera. However, with my bluetooth Marshall Monitor headset, nothing happens. It seems the buttons on these headsets doesn’t tiger the same event as the hard buttons on the phone or the ones on the plugged in headphones.
Does anyone know how I could program the phone so it’s possible? Perhaps with the AutomateIt app or something? Searches yielded no results.
Ps! I want to use the stock camera app.