Kubernetes setup on different network speeds

I’m currently in the planning phase of setting-up my own Kubernetes cluster from scratch, with nodes around the world. 4 to be exact.

There is a difference on the Networks/Servers:

1x "Monster" 6TB Raid1,       20c 2.4Ghz, 256G Mem, 100Gbit net 2x "small"   25GB,            1c  2.4Ghz, 2G   Mem, 10Gbit  net 1x "storage" 20TB Raid1 (x2), 32c 4.5Ghz, 128G Mem, 1Gbit   net   

My original idea was to use the “storage” one as a backup of data and more or maybe even a replicate-able master, kinda like a control unit where the “Monster” would run the main applications and storage, and the small nodes would be application endpoints. but i’m unaware if this is even possible with kubernetes, and unfortunately I’m unable to find anything about it.

If i messed up my search please let me know..

Basically this is what i have lying around, can maybe switch the 2 “small” with something with more space, but possibly max 100GB.

Anyways, I was thinking of running something similar to GlusterFS across the “Monster” and the “storage”, for storage purpose for kubernetes, and then making “storage” the k8s-master, and the “Monster”/”Small” as nodes. Though this might be the wrong approach for Kubernetes.

Unfortunatly I have a hard time finding information on requirements of them master when we are talking about network etc. Of course more network is always better, but i was thinking of using the “Storage” as a backup for the others if all else should fail.

I would like some help honing in on what the best option is in this situation?

If I connect a SATA3 6Gbps SSD to a SAS2 6Gbps port using a breakout cable, will I get SATA3 speeds?

I have 2 SATA3 SSDs in my server, which are currently connected to SATA2 ports. If I wanted to get SATA3 speeds out of them instead, could I buy a SAS2 HBA and use an SFF-8087 to SATA breakout cable to get 6Gbps speeds out of it (since SAS2 is Gbps) or would I need a SAS3 or SATA3 card to get those speeds?

Extremely slow speeds when tethering via usb [duplicate]

This question already has an answer here:

  • RNDIS Connection Lag On Windows, Not Linux 1 answer

I finished building my new gaming PC today. Since my phone’s (Galaxy S9) internet is usually much faster than my house’s internet, I tethered it to my new computer. However, I’m experiencing much, much slower internet speeds than on my last PC. So, I ran a few speed tests. On my phone, I got around ~20Mbps download speeds. On my PC, I got around ~0.80Mbps download speeds. This seems to make no sense, as I even have USB 3.0 ports that I can plug into instead of the 2.0 ports I used to have. I tried this, but to no avail. I did recently buy a new USB-C cable for my phone, maybe that’s the cause?

My phone’s tethering speeds have never been this slow, and it’s really starting to sour my new computer’s freshness.

What could possibly be happening?

Other info:

Completely fresh install of Windows 10 Home.

Asus Prime X470-Pro motherboard.

Android Pie installed on my phone.

macOS Server VPN (L2TP) speeds choking on Mac Pro, but not Macbook Pro

I have a MacOS Server (10.12.6) set up running a VPN server at one location (site A). I have a Mac Pro (10.12.6) and Macbook Pro (10.14.5 beta 3) running at a second location (site B). Both sites have symmetrical gigabit fiber internet (and yes, I am getting full speeds on each end). The two clients at site B have a VPN profile for the site A Server, which specifies all traffic be sent over the VPN. My Macbook Pro (wi-fi) is getting great speeds: ~300Mbps symmetrical up/down. My Mac Pro (wired) is getting great download ~350Mbps, but terrible upload speeds (~60Mbps). Using speedtest.net, I noticed that the speed starts increasing from the start (~20 Mbps) to about 1/10th of the way through the test (~40 Mbps), then chokes, drops back down, then slowly increases until the test stops around 60Mbps. I have tried deleting the VPN profile and recreating it. This speed difference is very important, as I am shuttling massive amounts of data (hundreds of gigabytes) across this connection.

What could be causing this and what can I do to get full upload speeds out of my client?

Getting 10mb/s speeds on a 1gb network

I’m at a loss and I’ve scoured the internet for answers, but none of them seem to work. I have a TP-LINK TL-SG108E 8 Port Gigabit Easy Smart Switch, a desktop, a laptop, and my new Synology 918+ that I just set up, all connected through the switch. The switch is then connected to an Amplifi router, but I’m not transferring anything to the router, I just mention it to give a complete picture. The desktop and laptop are both Windows 10.

My desktop has a 1gb ethernet connection, and it is connected at 1000 full duplex. TCP checksums offload are disabled. My laptop has a 1gb Intel 82579 internal network adapter, and it’s connected at 1000 full duplex. My 918+ has whatever adapter it has, and it is connected at 1000 full. I look on my switch, and all ports are negotiated for 1000 full. MTU’s are the default 1500 everywhere I can check them.

When I copy files, the highest speed I ever get is 10 or 11 mb/s. When I’m transferring from my laptop to my desktop I don’t mind that much and I’ve learned to live with it, but I just got this NAS and I’m going to be transferring like 10TB of data to it, and I can’t have it going at 10mb/s.

I should be getting close to 100, especially with just these couple devices, and less than 10′ of cable between the device and the switch. Doing searches on the internet there’s many many people that have this issue, but there are few resolutions.

I’m hoping to get some ideas here.

XMP Profile and two RAMs of unequal speeds

I have Corsair 2400Mhz DDR4 RAM in my PC. Now if I buy Corsair 3000MHz and install it in the next DIMM socket (and assuming it works) I believe both will be clocked to 2400 by default.

However if I choose XMP profile and set it to 3000 how the speeds will behave for individual sticks?

Will 3000 operate at stock speed of 3000 and 2400 gets overclocked to 3000?

Case Fan Hub and Motherboard Controlled Case Fan Speeds

My computer case has a fan hub for plugging the CPU fan and case fans into. The fan hub also has a cable to plug the fan hub into the CPU fan connection on the motherboard. The power to the hub is supplied by the PSU with a SATA 6 power supply connection. The motherboard manual says that the board will adjust the fan speeds based on CPU temperature. Right now, I have the CPU fan plugged directly into the motherboard. And my three case fans plugged into the fan hub on the case. All the fans seem to work correctly. Starting when the computer is turned on, and stopping when the computer is off or in stand by mode. When I look at the BIOS, the temperature of the CPU is displayed and the CPU fan information is displayed. But, the fans that are plugged into the fan hub are not displayed.

If I plug the CPU fan into the hub and then plug the hub into the CPU fan connection on the motherboard, will the BIOS display the information for the case fans and will the motherboard be able to control the speed of the case fans based on the CPU temperature as if the case fans were directly plugged into the motherboard?

Motherboard: ASRock X470 Master SLI/AC AM4 AMD Promontory X470 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI ATX AMD

Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Gunmetal Brushed Aluminum/Steel ATX Silent Modular Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower

OS: Linux Mint 19.1

At what shutter speeds is mirror lock-up worthwhile?


I know what mirror lock-up is and what it’s good for, but I’m curious about the range of shutter speeds where it provides a real benefit.

A little background

I use a nice, sturdy tripod for shooting still life photos, and sometimes portraits. More often than not for still life shooting, I use live view either because the camera is at an odd height or angle, or because I’m shooting in very low light that makes it difficult or impossible to compose and focus through the viewfinder.

There are previous questions that ask about whether the mirror flips back down and then up again during live view shooting. In my camera the answer is yes (detail further down). This means that if I want to use both live view and mirror lock-up, I need to compose in live view, then disable live view, then shoot with mirror lock-up plus timer or remote, then re-enable live view to play around more and recompose. This is pretty disruptive, to say the least, so I’d like to understand when it’s worth the trouble.

The Blanston Hypothesis

It seems that if the shutter speed is fast enough, then any vibration of the camera would be insignificant because the image is captured too fast for the camera to move too much during the exposure. And it seems that if the shutter speed is slow enough, the short amount of time that the camera vibrates wouldn’t matter because it would be buried below the noise of the capture (assuming very low light, no flash, etc.). So I figure there must be a range of shutter speeds where mirror lock-up makes a difference in image quality. It wouldn’t surprise me if it’s related to focal length, sort of like the 1/(focal length x crop factor) guideline for non-IS handheld shooting.


So, as the title states, at what shutter speeds is mirror lock-up worthwhile? Is my reasoning correct (or at least sane)?

The detail I promised you earlier

This answer indicates that live view does accomplish mirror lock-up using a Canon 70D, but my experience with my 80D indicates otherwise.

When I use mirror lock-up in normal (non-live view) mode, I can clearly hear that the first curtain noise at the beginning of the exposure is a very minor “tick” sound, which makes sense. I do this with a suitably long shutter speed (say 1 second or more), so that I can clearly separate the sounds at the beginning of the exposure from the sounds at the end, when the mirror flips back down.

However, when I use live view, I can very clearly hear the mirror moving at the beginning of the exposure. Also, when I’m in live view mode, the mirror lock-up option is grayed out in the menu, which indicates that it’s not available in that mode.